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    • #14513
      boot3rs
      Participant

      Got the book and read it. Still a little confused on the 90 angle suggested. The 90 angle should be where the contact screw hits the front spring correct! Im stupid so if this is incorrect please advise. Im going on that theory and I bought new springs (front and back) lower guage (thin) because I am trying (I emphasie trying to set up a shader. Ok so I got the contact screw at a 90 angle when the a bar is completly down (Assuming I have the theory correct. In doing so my contact screw is at the middle of the front spring to achieve this. I believe all the 16 gauge springs I got are to long, the front top of my spring actually extends over the nipple on the A bar. So obviously next time I have to get a shorter spring. But while I am using this spring that is long should I still have the contact screw in the middle to achieve the 90 angle?

      I hope what Im trying to ask is not all jumbled.

    • #19902
      wrathone11
      Participant

      Got what your asking and from the sounds of it the machine you’re working with is a cutback, meaning the position of the front binding post is “cutback” so the 90 degree angle you’re looking for puts the contact screw farther back meaning you use a shorter front spring. You can cut the front spring to the desired length to get rid of excess spring. The thing is, cutbacks are normally set up as liners. Don’t get too caught up in the liner shader labels though, you can use any machine for anything if you tune it right and know what you’re doing. The other thing is don’t get dead set on the 90 degree angle thing, it’s just a rule of thumb. I’ve got machines set up with 90 degree angles and I’ve got machines set up with what is probably a 45 degree angle depending on what I’m tuning them to do for me. Remember also the 90 degree angle is not to the armature bar it’s to the front spring. Meaning the angle of the contact screw from the front spring when the two are touching is 90 degrees, not the contact screw being set at a 90 degree angle to the armature bar.

    • #19903
      boot3rs
      Participant

      Thanks for the info. Is it going to cause a performance issue if I leave the contact screw in the middle of the front spring, until I get shorter front springs or get time to cut off the portion of the front spring?

      Thanks again

    • #19904
      Troub1edSou1z
      Participant

      post a couple pics of your machine. front, and coil side. is the machine a mini (cutback)? just as wrath said, the whole 90 degree thing is a guide, and more addressed to lining not shading. when setting up a machine you gotta know what you want to set up for. ie.. shading/pushing 5m-7m’s, or do you want it to push something bigger like 11m-13m’s. i would say post a pick and we can help you more on what possibilities you have with the machine.

    • #19905
      boot3rs
      Participant

      Thanks, already placed a shorter front spring on it, seemed to be fine.

      Can anyone give me a good set up for a color packer. Front and back springs (Length, side width and guage for both. Thanks

    • #19906
      Troub1edSou1z
      Participant

      i’ve posted this before, i believe. it’s basics, but helps………

      BASIC SET-UP PROCEEDURE

      1. A thin front spring will slow down a machine.
      2. A thick front spring will speed up a machine.
      3. A large capacitor will slow down a machine.
      4. A small capacitor will speed up a machine.
      5. A lighter armature bar will speed up a machine.
      6. A heavier armature bar will slow down a machine.
      7. Bigger coils will slow down a machine. The more wraps your coil has, the greater the resistance… thus slowing down the machine.
      8. The thickness of the spring, the air gap (the space between the armature bar and the top of the coil) and the point gap determine the length of the stroke (how far the needles travel).

      There’s more to it than that but this is all the info you need to tune your machines to a specific task.

      Liner : 8-wrap coils, thick front spring, light armature bar and small capacitor.

      Shader : 10-wrap coils, medium to thin front spring, standard armature bar and standard capacitor.

      Colorer : 10 wrap coils, thin front spring, heavy armature bar and large capacitor.
      you don’t have to stick to much to the size of the coils. you can get 8’s to work as color/shader, and vise versa…you just have to play around with different config. until you get the machine where you like it. i basically have the color packer setup, and my machine runs nice at 8.5v / 103htz / ft:0 / duty cycle: 49 if you care about #’s…..

    • #19907
      boot3rs
      Participant

      Thanks, any specific back spring for a color packer

    • #19908
      Troub1edSou1z
      Participant

      again you have to play around with it, but start out with a medium rear spring(18g), and increase the gap between the abar and rear spring deck…….

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