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    • #14791
      robroy289
      Participant

      Hey guys, i need a little help with shader setup. I have my liner doing pretty good right now but my shader is shit. I am very new and i have no idea what gage to go with. My liner i am running 20 ga. short front spring and 18 ga. back. and seems to do well with a thick consistent line. But I am only using practice skins. If anyone has any suggestions on my liner, i would also appreciate that to. I am thinking of ordering a heavy a-bar and spring set from Eikon and need any advise. Thanks guys… 8-)

    • #20895
      cjmahone66
      Member

      @robroy289 wrote:

      Hey guys, i need a little help with shader setup. I have my liner doing pretty good right now but my shader is shit. I am very new and i have no idea what gage to go with. My liner i am running 20 ga. short front spring and 18 ga. back. and seems to do well with a thick consistent line. But I am only using practice skins. If anyone has any suggestions on my liner, i would also appreciate that to. I am thinking of ordering a heavy a-bar and spring set from Eikon and need any advise. Thanks guys… 8-)

      most of the time if you buy a decent machine already set up as a shader, you shouldn’t have to change anything. so if your machine is decent, then i would look at your technique next. practice skins always hung on to my needles when shading, never could get them to shade properly. Pig skin was much better for me when learning how to shade.
      if you are trying to build/tune a shader, i would suggest reading “The Tattoo Artist’s Black Book: A Guide For Students”. It has a wealth of information about how/why machines work and how to adjust them properly. Look for it on the Ink-Trails. Good luck.

    • #20896
      robroy289
      Participant

      Thanks for the advise. I plan on getting some good books, material exct. when i get some extra cash. Until then i has hoping for your all’s help. I appreciate anyone’s input and advice. Thanks.

    • #20897
      robroy289
      Participant

      Thanks for the help!!!! Cjmahone66, it looks like you are the only one… I posted this 12 days ago i thought i’d at least get a couple more guys to help me out….. I thought we where suppose to help each other out. THANKS ALOT !!!!! :evil:

    • #20898
      Loopi
      Member

      Hey, I under stand the lack of help here you get one or two who are fantastic then you get some people who seem to forget that they too had to learn!

      here is a link http://www.tattoomachineequipment.com/setting-up-a-shader-tattoo-machine-gun.

      I am still on the liner side of things (only learning) but you will have to make changed to the machine such as a a heavy armature bar.

    • #20899
      robroy289
      Participant

      Thanks man for the help. It makes a lot more sense now. I really do like this forum. And hopefully someday i will get good enough to help someone else. Its all about the art and the camaraderie to me.. 8-)

    • #20900
      Johnny
      Member

      Try slowing your machine, and hand speed down. If you are using mags, use a pushing motion at a 45 degree angle. I see new tattooers working too fast, and with crazy hand motions, and running their machines way to hard when shading. Take it slow and easy and keep practicing and you will see some results.

    • #20901
      robroy289
      Participant

      Thanks man. i will try that using a mag on practice skin. I have a very cheap old meter style power supply and hope im using the right voltage. I useally go a nickle or dime and by the sound of the machine. Then i put my thumb to the a- bar were gromet sits and adjust from there. But i am still wet behing the ears so i may not even be doing that right. I will do a practice skin and post it . then u guys tell me what you think.. Thanks.

    • #20902
      Johnny
      Member

      If you are trying to tune a color shader you can go a nickel or more gap. I run between 3 and 4mm gap on my color machines. A nickel is 1.95mm thick. The longer the stroke, the easier it will be to pack color in, but will diminish your ability to blend. Don’t confuse stroke with penetration. If your are wanting to do black and grey work, you might want to stick with a medium, or short stroke shader, or set 3 machines up (a liner, a long stroke shader and a short stroke shader) basically after you finish your lines you would use your long stroke machine to fill in any solid areas, so you can do it quick without hammering the skin, then use your short stroke machine to blend off the solid areas, and use your liner for highlights. Keep any shader machine running soft. If you put a finger on top of your a bar nipple and the machine doesent stop, or almost stop, odds are your voltage is too high. Hope this helps.

    • #20903
      robroy289
      Participant

      Thank’s , I will do a practice skin and post it to the “show off you’r work” spot on this site. I think will all you’r guys help i’ve figured it out.

    • #20904
      nedmanders
      Member

      i use one machine for shading and lining. i just adjust the power supply when i change and now i got a sweet new digital one that was preset i only kicked the power adjutment up a notch for the shading.

      so if you do the right settings and ajustments you should be able to use the same machine for anything.

    • #20905
      robroy289
      Participant

      Thanks guys . I finally got a apprenticeship and my teacher is helping me build my own machine. So i will keep you guys filled in..

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