November 18, 2013 at 9:17 pm #15728
I bought the hildbrandt kit with the three coils, magnum, marlin,and calibre a couple months ago. Im running out of needles and would like to buy some springs capcitors etc. I wasnt happy with the springs that came on the machines so I want to replace them. I am just using my equipment for practicing on pig skins . I would like to try some of superiortattoos springs and needles just to see what they are like. Has anyone delt with this company? Is the quality okay? I looked for springs on hildebrandt site but didnt see any.springs or capcitors or I would try ordering from them if they had some stuff to upgrade machines. I dont have an apprenticeship or liscensed so any recommendations where I can buy somewhat quality stuff that will allow me to buy from them? So I can try out differemt supplies and figure out what I like best. Any suggestions will be appre ciated. Thanks… :?:
November 19, 2013 at 12:56 am #26594
I have been tattooing for three years, and have always dealt with Hildbrant. They have a pack where you get 50 needles 50 grips, and just about everything else you need to tattoo. I’ve been buying strictly from them for a while, and have had no issues. Their customer service is amazing. I have also written twelve reviews for their products, and such. I also use five of their machines: .357 Magnum, .444 Marlin, .44 Winchester, .22 Rimfire, and .30 Carbine. I used them for a while without changing anything so that I could write a fair review on the machines stock. They work fine, so I don’t see how there is anything wrong with their coils, or springs. Perhaps you haven’t tuned them properly. As far as springs they do have them on their website, and their capacitors come on their coils that you buy. They are prewired. The only thing I have changed is I added a speed bar on the .30 Carbine, and changed the back spring on the .444 Marlin to slow it down to use it as a colour packer. I’ve also put an RCA mount on all the machines as I use an RCA clip cord, but that won’t really make too much of a difference in performance. I just find RCA to be a lot more consistent, and have no dead zones.
November 19, 2013 at 5:43 am #26595
Thanks for the feedback. I have read most of your reviews back when I was deciding what to buy to start out with.And have seen on the forum that you really standby their product. one reason I decided to buy their machines. However I noticed that they only have 20 gauge springs. I may be wrong bu I think they offer a total of seven different springs thats front and back. Seven total. I would like to try different spring configurations , sizes and material. Just to see what they do and how they feel. Im ordering a couple of each to see. but would still like to try some blue steel springs. The defaults were really rigid like they claimed. Is it true that you can only use their springs with their machines. Im happy with their product as a whole I just want to see if everything in the book tattoo basics makes a difference depending on the parts and pieces and the speed of the hand and pressure etc. I know all in all its the person running the machine not the machine. Ex drawing with a crayon some can make fine art with crayons some can only color the coloring books with them . .But some tools or adjustments to them can makes it smoother right? Like sharpening the crayon. :-) Have you used the black oiled springs what do you think of them. Thanks for all ur help so far. I love the forum and I hope that one day I can be of help to others not just asking all the questions. :D
November 19, 2013 at 6:00 am #26596
All of my non-hildbrant machines have black springs. I do like them, and I find they don’t build up carbon scoring as much. I like them. I mainly use the Hildbrant machines though lately. They are all the same size and weight, and I use sometimes five machines on one piece. I find it helps when each machine is as similar as possible. It’s also aesthetically pleasing.
You can change out pretty much everything on the machine. Springs, a bar, coils, screws, washers, insulated washers, etc. You can even make the machine RCA if you want. There are various types of RCA mounting available.
Here are some combinations I have liked:
short stroke liner = 0.019 front spring-0.018 rear spring. light armature bar.
long stroke liner = 0.020 front spring-0.019 rear spring. light armature bar.
shader = 0.016 front spring-0.017 rear spring. medium armature bar.
colour packer = 0.015 front spring-0.016 rear spring. heavy armature bar.
That’s just me though. Be careful when changing certain parts though. Some A bars are longer, or thicker than others. Hildbrant’s speedbars are a hair bigger than the stock bars. Luckily I use RCA mounts so all I had to do was put the springs above the mount instead of below. Basically shimming the springs up, haha. Just pay attention to what you’re buying, and what you’re putting on, and you should be fine.
Try this website:
November 19, 2013 at 6:17 am #26597
thanks dude… Ill give them a try. That will help me out. Thanks for being so detailed and taking your time to type all that out and share your knowledge . :D
November 19, 2013 at 8:18 am #26598
Not a problem. That’s what I’m here for.
November 19, 2013 at 2:06 pm #26599robroy289Participant
As far as springs you can order from monstersteel.com their springs a a little wide for a liner but they are perfect for shadders and color packers. I prefer the blue steel type springs for shadding.. You have to be careful ordering springs from Superior cause they carry some springs made only for their Raven machines that aren’t made out of metal ,carbon fiber, or they use to. I try some of their springs and they just sparked allot and not good contact. I don’t know what the issue was but it happend with every set i used.. You just will have to try different springs. compositors, and different setup’s until you find what works for you..
November 19, 2013 at 4:11 pm #26600
Thanks Ill check them out too.Typically Im very light handed when using a pencil to draw with except when putting in the dark contrast. I am also very very slow when it comes to drawing. so ive got to figure out whats the best way to setup my machines to benefit my handspeed . I could never charge by the hour ! That is later on down the road though now im just learning the machines and the art.
November 19, 2013 at 7:17 pm #26601
Honestly, I used to spend 2-3 hrs doing a drawing. Now I can bust out an outline drawing for a stencil in about 5-10 minutes, and I can do simple outlines/script in 15-25 minutes. After you do it for a while you get used to it, and you speed right up. I started off with slow machines, now I have mostly fast ones. I have a one-of-a-kind liner that runs at almost 200Hz at 6.4v
November 20, 2013 at 7:42 am #26602
well i hope i do get a little faster. i looked at the monstersteel company i checked them out when i was looking to buy my kit back a few months ago. I woild like to try some of their stuff because they are kinda located closer to where i live but are they wholesale and retail? I couldnt find anything on the website about buyer restrictions . i was just wondering if they do sell to us that dont have an apprenticeship or a proffessional. If anyone knows let me know. I did see that the order has to be a minimum of 100 $ though that was the only thing.
November 20, 2013 at 9:50 am #26603
Yeah I’m pretty sure a friend of mine has purchased from them before.
November 20, 2013 at 6:26 pm #26604robroy289Participant
Anyone can order. I didn’t think they had an order restriction. I do know the order has to be $200 or more to get free shipping.. They have some good stuff along with some crappy stuff! But their white disposable tubes are great!
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