90 angle

Got what your asking and from the sounds of it the machine you’re working with is a cutback, meaning the position of the front binding post is “cutback” so the 90 degree angle you’re looking for puts the contact screw farther back meaning you use a shorter front spring. You can cut the front spring to the desired length to get rid of excess spring. The thing is, cutbacks are normally set up as liners. Don’t get too caught up in the liner shader labels though, you can use any machine for anything if you tune it right and know what you’re doing. The other thing is don’t get dead set on the 90 degree angle thing, it’s just a rule of thumb. I’ve got machines set up with 90 degree angles and I’ve got machines set up with what is probably a 45 degree angle depending on what I’m tuning them to do for me. Remember also the 90 degree angle is not to the armature bar it’s to the front spring. Meaning the angle of the contact screw from the front spring when the two are touching is 90 degrees, not the contact screw being set at a 90 degree angle to the armature bar.

post a couple pics of your machine. front, and coil side. is the machine a mini (cutback)? just as wrath said, the whole 90 degree thing is a guide, and more addressed to lining not shading. when setting up a machine you gotta know what you want to set up for. ie.. shading/pushing 5m-7m’s, or do you want it to push something bigger like 11m-13m’s. i would say post a pick and we can help you more on what possibilities you have with the machine.

i’ve posted this before, i believe. it’s basics, but helps………

BASIC SET-UP PROCEEDURE

1. A thin front spring will slow down a machine.
2. A thick front spring will speed up a machine.
3. A large capacitor will slow down a machine.
4. A small capacitor will speed up a machine.
5. A lighter armature bar will speed up a machine.
6. A heavier armature bar will slow down a machine.
7. Bigger coils will slow down a machine. The more wraps your coil has, the greater the resistance… thus slowing down the machine.
8. The thickness of the spring, the air gap (the space between the armature bar and the top of the coil) and the point gap determine the length of the stroke (how far the needles travel).

There’s more to it than that but this is all the info you need to tune your machines to a specific task.

Liner : 8-wrap coils, thick front spring, light armature bar and small capacitor.

Shader : 10-wrap coils, medium to thin front spring, standard armature bar and standard capacitor.

Colorer : 10 wrap coils, thin front spring, heavy armature bar and large capacitor.
you don’t have to stick to much to the size of the coils. you can get 8’s to work as color/shader, and vise versa…you just have to play around with different config. until you get the machine where you like it. i basically have the color packer setup, and my machine runs nice at 8.5v / 103htz / ft:0 / duty cycle: 49 if you care about #’s…..

again you have to play around with it, but start out with a medium rear spring(18g), and increase the gap between the abar and rear spring deck…….