- This topic has 2 replies, 2 voices, and was last updated 11 years ago by
.
-
Posts
-
-
So, I’m thinking maybe I should replace my original coils with some new coils. I have a Mickey Sharpz micro dial liner and a dial shader. I’m wondering if I should replace them with Mickey coils or does someone have a better suggestion. I read here on another thread that the capacitor could be my issue and will most likely replace them as well with a capacitor from the shack. But, too get some freshies sounds like a good plan and use the old ones with a new capacitor on some of my old Chinese junk machines. The Chinese frames seem okay but the coils are most likely garbage. Any input on this would be greatly appreciated. Oh yeah, the issue I’m having is that the machine works fine for awhile but then slows down after it runs for a bit. One other thing I’ve been contemplating is too drill out the A-bar too lighten it for the liner. Has anyone does this with good results? I hear a lighter A-bar will speed up the machine without having to crank up the juice. Is this true?
TG -
-
Well, I know what you mean about power supplies. I actually have a Eikon EMS 400. After doing a bunch of research on coils it is seeming to me that many are going straight 8 wrap coils but changing the capacitor from a 27 (liner) to a 45 (shader). Is this the new way thinking? I was taught 8 wrap for lining and 10 wrap for shading with 45 caps across the board. I also read that “solid” cores are best and when I took my coils off my Mickeys they were pretty much hollow. I read somewhere that filling them with steel wool would help them out. Is this false? Would you recommend Renegade coils over Mickey coils? I have a mill lathe in the barn so drilling the A-bar would be no big deal, that is if it’s really even worth it or is it a gimmick?
-
- You must be logged in to reply to this topic.
Recent Comments