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    • #14673
      tat2theEarth
      Member

      Ok.. I have 2 machines, one liner and one shader, my question is for input on which to use to pack color, when I used my shader with the round shader needles it seems like it took way too long to get solid color, but when I speed it up a little it seemed to work a little better, I have heard to just use the liner with the tight round needles, but I’m worried it will chew the skin up.. any suggestions, anyone?

    • #20450
      lostcause
      Participant

      The only time i ever do color with my liner is on a very small area that most of my mags or rounds cant get or even on the very tips of the tribal. For the longest time I played with shader and color machines, best thing I can tell you is buy another shading machine and change your contact screw to the width of a dime and nickle together and go from there.

    • #20451
      giliegil
      Member

      to pak in color u want to slow down the machine and move over the area as slow as you can – let the machine do the work……that’s my 2 cents….. :ugeek:

    • #20452
      giliegil
      Member

      as far as contact screw gap – try nikle PLUS dime gap – 8-)

    • #20453
      Sabine2602
      Member

      I’m using the liner to color in the small spots right when the line is complete, for all the tiny work that might be too small for the RS. For big color parts Im always using a slow RS and different angle. Tried M too but I guess I did something wrong, it looked bad when healed so I stick to the RS for a few months more. Guess its the working speed & machine speed which is the secret.

    • #20454
      Johnny
      Member

      Hey what’s up. Just throwing in my two cents… I would be using mags. Round shaders are grouped rather tightly, and for packing anything solid can be counter-productive for two reasons. 1. They are grouped so close together that causing exess trauma to the skin is almost impossible to avoid if you have to make more than one pass. 2. The needles aren’t far enough apart to allow enough ink to gather between them to facilitate the flow needed to pack in color. I guess everyone is different, but I strongly prefer mags. I guess the hand movement could be described like shoveling snow?? Not so much rotational movement like when you use a RS. More forward in, back out, repeat. Haha. Does anyone feel me on that or do I just sound stupid?

    • #20455

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    • #20456
      tat2theEarth
      Member

      Thanks for the advise guys u will take all into consideeation. I havent used mags yet but plan to with my next piece of practice skin.. will let u know if i do any better. Once again thanks a ton

    • #20457
      netrecov
      Member

      ok so here goes my question and story… just so u know i only work on myself and have a few questions that the 1 tattoo shop in a 50 mile radius of me refuses to answer.

      so i have done some tribal on myself and every time i use a flat or a magnum it seems to shade and not solid fill. one 1 particular piece i stuck it out with the 6 flat and it chewed the skin up really good. I have been trying to search the net for a decent answer and havent really found aanything reliable… any ideas? my setup it a machine that has roughly a nickel gap, 90deg contact point and my power supply runs at roughly 5- 6.5 v…. it is the grinder kit from pirate face tattoo.. i just cant seem to figure it out. also it seems that the disposable 6f tube tip dumps the ink out in like a dime area even when filled with ink then i have to refill… is that normal?

    • #20458

      i also bought the grinder kit to see if tattoo was for me, only to find out and sooner than i thought have already needed to and have done some upgrades, like new machines and soon a power suppl, but back to topic. i also have a problem with color packing, my lines are on point and heal outstanding but my color areas have excess scabbs and take alittle longer to heal. after reading some of the other comments on this topic i see some of the changes needed to reduce this unwanted problem. but if anybody can add more please do. i run my machine with low volts (4.5-4.7) with a nickle gap and usaully use a mag ranging from 5 to 9. anybodies help would be great and received with the upmost. thank you

    • #20459
      netrecov
      Member

      ok so after reading a few posts last night i decided to tinker more with my tuning… i set a 2 nickel gap and cracked the voltaged up to like 9.5… the machine was yelling loudly but not hitting the coils… so i thru a 5m2 on it new tube and began to fill a tribal piece on my leg. it started taking the color like a champ! it wasnt running out of ink super fast like it used to too.. ill post how its healing in a few days. also i only use tattoo goo on my tattoos after the first 24 hours.

    • #20460
      Johnny
      Member

      @netrecov. Are you using a flat or a mag? You made references to both, but I’m not sure you know that they are different. Flats are generally used in black and grey work to blend. Mags on the other hand are far more common. If you are chewing up the skin you are either going too deep, or making too many passes over the same area, or running your machine too hard. A color packer needs to be running slow and soft. I typically run about a 4mm gap (or two nickels) on my color machines. Since black ink is typically thinner than most color pigment, you may not need this wide of a gap. Bad hand gesture can also throw a wrench in your tattooing. I see a lot of rookies doing some kind of circular motion, and staying in the skin the entire time they are shading. You should be making small forward passes when working with mags or flats.

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