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i can feel the skin raising on the back of your necks right now. Don’t freak out on me. I’m going to put up a picture and back away slowly …. i Have two questions…
1. if i were to replace this single pressure gauge with a duel temp and pressure gauge what would i be missing to make this satisfactory ?
2. Has anyone used barbersol as a cleaning solvent for the actual machine? -
missing a few parts on that friend. A simple lid, even one that may twist on, is not going to get that thing to the pressure that is needed to be an effective unit. Two things are needed to sterilize, heat of no less than 121 celcius and pressure of no less than 12psi…the highest i have ever personally seen an autoclave run was 132 celcius and 16psi. without clamps at 12 psi that lid will blow right off, if it even gets that high to begin with. You can easily find the schematics for top open autoclaves on the internet, then some minor welding and drilling and you can build an effective unit. The real test is going to be wheter or not it can pass a spore test. There are even a few labs that will give you a free spore test and even retest you up to 3 times if you fail! A single test, including spore strip and lab results can be purchased for about 20 us dollars online.
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Ok. I should post the vid of this thing in action. The device fastened to the top allows me to adjust the pressure of the pot. The actual cooker is very sturdy(circa 1960 cook ware ). I have a video of the cooker holding 30 psi. I’ve checked it using 2 different gauges. Now I plan on a split gauge that displays both temp and pressure. In my mind, water boils at 215* (100*) celcius. At 15 psi the average cooker(from published adds) runs at 250. 131* c is like 275*f. If i run at 20-25 psi I feel like ill more then make up the 25* degrees. What do u think?
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