liner/ shader/packer setups.

[Johnny]

Hey I see a lot of people asking about machine setups, so I thought I would share a few of the ones I like and hopefully some of you guys can post some others.

Liner- I like a longer stroke, and I measure my gap from the space between the top of the front coil and the bottom of the armature bar, instead of the contact screw gap with the armature bar pressed down. This eliminates any variables, especially with softer front springs, since they will bend, and ultimately the stroke of your machine will be longer than what it appears to be with the armature bar depressed. I usually set my liner up at just under a nickels width to start. An easy way to do it would be to place a nickel between the armature bar and the front coil, then turn your contact screw until the a-bar touches the nickel, remove the nickel and give it another half a turn.

Shader-when you are grey shading, or blending you want smooth uniform lay in. I like my shader to run faster than a liner, but still soft like a color packer. You are going to need some soft springs to achieve this. I use a 20ga rear spring and an 18ga long front spring. Basically run your machine and turn your contact screw in until your machine is going as fast as it can. There is a point when your machine is going to start sounding like shit and you will notice it. If you get to that point back the contact screw off untill it starts sounding normal again. Adjust your power supply so that your machine is running rather softly.

Color packer- slow and steady… Same spring setup as the shader, just instead of as fast as possible, you are aiming for as slow as possible. This will allow your needle to travel farther up in the tube at a slower speed to gather more ink between the needles, and “pack” the pigment ink. Turn your contact screw out until it is no longer touching the front spring. Then step on your foot switch while you are turning the contact screw in. As soon as you machine starts to run, stop turning. Make sure your machine runs everytime you hit the switch, sometimes you will have to give the srew another half a turn or so. I hope these help.

[giliegil]

wow – we only agree on color packing – everybody is different and the way u personally tattoo will determine how to tune ur machine – i like fast and short strokes for lining and longer strokes for shading – pending on what effect i’m lookin for in the shading will also determine speed but more than that is your hand speed and wrist action – but yea – tattooing is funny like that 8-)

[tat2theEarth]

I like my liner to hit fast n fairly hard.. short strokes and i start at zero on my power supply and go up til my armature bar hits the coil then go another full volt.. shader i use just a hair bigger than a nickel gap and turn the voltage up until the armature bar hits an go a hair lower til it just hits when running.. same setup for color packing.. makes for nice smooth gradients for shading without making washes. And good solid fill without chewing the skin.. im surprised at how well its doing with cheapo ebay machines..

[Troub1edSou1z]

@Johnny wrote:

Hey I see a lot of people asking about machine setups, so I thought I would share a few of the ones I like and hopefully some of you guys can post some others.

Liner- I like a longer stroke, and I measure my

gap from the space between the top of the front coil and the bottom of the armature bar

, instead of the contact screw gap with the armature bar pressed down.

This eliminates any variables

, especially with softer front springs, since they will bend, and ultimately the stroke of your machine will be longer than what it appears to be with the armature bar depressed. I usually set my liner up at just under a nickels width to start.

An easy way to do it would be to place a nickel between the armature bar and the front coil, then turn your contact screw until the a-bar touches the nickel, remove the nickel and give it another half a turn.

Shader-when you are grey shading, or blending you want smooth uniform lay in. I like my shader to run faster than a liner, but still soft like a color packer. You are going to need some soft springs to achieve this. I use a 20ga rear spring and an 18ga long front spring. Basically run your machine and turn your contact screw in until your machine is going as fast as it can. There is a point when your machine is going to start sounding like shit and you will notice it. If you get to that point back the contact screw off untill it starts sounding normal again. Adjust your power supply so that your machine is running rather softly.

Color packer- slow and steady… Same spring setup as the shader, just instead of as fast as possible, you are aiming for as slow as possible. This will allow your needle to travel farther up in the tube at a slower speed to gather more ink between the needles, and “pack” the pigment ink. Turn your contact screw out until it is no longer touching the front spring. Then step on your foot switch while you are turning the contact screw in. As soon as you machine starts to run, stop turning. Make sure your machine runs everytime you hit the switch, sometimes you will have to give the srew another half a turn or so. I hope these help.

If your going to give information make sure your information isn’t garbage. First, that space between the top of the coil and bottom of abar is called an air gap. Second, the space between your contact screw and front spring is called a point gap. Third, this does not in any way eliminate any variables whatso ever. In order to maintain a duty cycle within ranges 45%-55%, your gap distances should be about the same, or as close as possible with other variances. Yes even with that soft front spring bend, you can get your duty cycle within range. Fourth, adjusting using the nickel/dime method is done at the point gap, not the air gap. How would you determine you have the same gap ever time? If you align the nickel toward the rear of the front coil, your gap will be further than if it were aligned in the middle or the front of the coil. typically, a liner would have a short fast stroke, unless you line very slow. Your shader/packer set ups are junk and backwards. matter of fact all of your set ups are backwards. Your not letting the machine work for you, your working the machine.

Now if you would like an explanation on proper set ups to get the machines to do what you want them to do, ask me and i will be glad to help!

[imported_canvasyou]

Depends on the kind of lines –
I know a lot of people who are using one machine for everything –
but if you are in street shop you kind of need 2 or more machines – to do flash –
new school work though.. you can get away w/ a soft medium stroke for everything.. if you want to build up your lines.

[leena]

A shader is will be set quick to get smooth shading and gradients, it will run faster than a color packer but slower than a liner, a color packer should run smoother and slower to get a clean even fill.

[robroy289]

@leena wrote:

A shader is will be set quick to get smooth shading and gradients, it will run faster than a color packer but slower than a liner, a color packer should run smoother and slower to get a clean even fill.

Exactly!! On my color packer i use 2 nickel air gap. You want the longest stroke possible cause color pigment is much thicker than black and requires a slower machine that will not damage the skin. My light shadder is almost set up like my liner but with a longer spring and lighter gauge ..

[Author]

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