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Just thought this could be some really useful info for beginners. How does everyone like their machines to run?
I mostly like to use 8 wrap coils with a softer back spring and and stiffer front spring with a liner. This way i can run at low volts, at about 125-135 hrtz with my duty cycle from about 45-50%. This way you have a little longer throw that hits kinda soft so as you dont blow out. With a shader most ppl say to use a heavier guage back spring and softer front spring with bigger coils. This way usually u have to turn up your voltage I myself like to also use a soft back spring with a soft front spring with either 8 or 10 wrap coils a lot of it depends ultimately on how much frame you have working with the coil size you have. If you have a light weight frame and want it to run slow as a shader at about 80-90 hrtz you’re gonna have to slap some bigger coils on it. But I have a color shader with 8 wrap coils and it does the same work as my 10 wrap shader because of frame size differences.
As far as your air gap goes most ppl say about the thickness of a dime for lining and a nickle for shading. This is just an approximation. What i usually do when tuning my liners is unscrew the screw that holds on the back spring. Twist the the spring around and give it a little bend back towards the contact screw so that when the contact screw is backed out all the way and the spring and armature bar assembly is re-tightened the gap between the a-bar and the front coil is about the width of 2 dimes.This may take a few tries. Then i tighten in my contact screw watching my meter untill i get to about 50% on my duty cycle which means the gap between your contact screw and front spring and the gap between a-bar and front coil are the same width. meaning the springs are doing half the work and the coils are doing the other half. The same goes for shaders. Just bend your springs more so that the gap is thicker like two nickles or about 2 or 3 millimeters. To help your machines run at lower volts bend your front spring back towards the contact screw opening the angle between the front spring and a-bar. Using weaker springs also helps.
Lots of ppl think just turning back the contact screw untill the air gap between the a-bar and front coil is the width of a nickle and then they r ready to shade. Just because you have the right air gap width and your machine sounds good does not mean your machine is running properly. If you don’t have your springs bent right your duty cycle is still gonna be too low and your only gonna tare the skin up and never put in any ink.
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http://tattoo-apprentice.com/learn-how-to-tattoo-for-free/about/
Do you have the book Basic Fundamentals of Modern Tattoo?
There is a chart in there that shows – SPEED, HIT, FOLLOW THROUGH – like how to make machine hit harder or go faster (ie liner shader)Check out Eikon Springs – they have gauge labeled on there – makes it easy to quickly find what you are looking for.
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No. Actually i would like to have this book. i just make my machines run faster or slower by changing the spring gauge configurations. i run my machines so that they bog down as soon as u hit the skin so that u can hang more needle out and not traumatize the skin. I run my shaders at about 85 to 90 cps and my liners at about 105 to 110 cps this way its not to fast so that you have to rush the tattoo and you can work the skin more without damaging it. I also like my machines to start running without a needle at as low volts as possible. Soft Soft Soft.
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@TheAlmightyGringo79 wrote:
in response to the original post here, All well and good saying nickel and dime thicknesses, but i am in the U.K so any idea of that approxamation for us brits please?
Thanks in advance.
1mm vs 2mm
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@canvasyou wrote:
http://tattoo-apprentice.com/learn-how-to-tattoo-for-free/about/
Do you have the book Basic Fundamentals of Modern Tattoo?
There is a chart in there that shows – SPEED, HIT, FOLLOW THROUGH – like how to make machine hit harder or go faster (ie liner shader)Check out Eikon Springs – they have gauge labeled on there – makes it easy to quickly find what you are looking for.
Hey Canvas, I know this is a really old post, but where in your book is that? I have read through your book heaps of times and have written down my own notes, but have never seen this chart… But then again, I have a version of the book where there was clearly a printing error because in the middle there is about 10-15 pages where they are upsidedown, backwards, only half a page etc…
Cheers,
Ben -
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@ben.catterall wrote:
@canvasyou wrote:
http://tattoo-apprentice.com/learn-how-to-tattoo-for-free/about/
Do you have the book Basic Fundamentals of Modern Tattoo?
There is a chart in there that shows – SPEED, HIT, FOLLOW THROUGH – like how to make machine hit harder or go faster (ie liner shader)Check out Eikon Springs – they have gauge labeled on there – makes it easy to quickly find what you are looking for.
Hey Canvas, I know this is a really old post, but where in your book is that? I have read through your book heaps of times and have written down my own notes, but have never seen this chart… But then again, I have a version of the book where there was clearly a printing error because in the middle there is about 10-15 pages where they are upsidedown, backwards, only half a page etc…
Cheers,
BenWOW! I am sorry to hear that!!!
The printer must have messed your copy up!
Please eMail or PM me!!!!I will get you a new book and a copy of the DVD “welcome tattoo disk 1”
The second tattoo DVD is being finished tomorrow!!
Disk 2 talks a lot more about tuning.Disk 3 will be advanced tuning and setup.
email support at TattooBooksOnline.com and Put “messed up book” in the subject line!
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Plug up the power supply in the starter kit. In the back you should plug in the cord that inserts into the outlet from the other end. On the power supply there are two more places to insert wires, it doesn’t matter which of the other two cords you put into them, but they should both be plugged in. One cord should go to the petal and the other should look like a Y.
With one of your guns, put a nipple on the armature bar pin. That is where the top of your needle will be connected around.
Under the armature bar pin you should see a space for the tube vise. Connect the tube vise with the gun and leave it loose.
Get your tube grip and connect it to your tube tip, tighten it well.
Drop the needle pointing downwards through the tube.
Put the tube up through the tube vise. Push the needle top over the nipple and tighten the tube vise. You can lower the tube so it will cover more or less of the needle.
Connect the wires that look like a Y to the gun. One end goes into the screw in the back of the gun and the other one should be inserted right above it.
Push the pedal and it should work.
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