starting voltage values for lining and shading

[its130]

Hi, i am on my forth tattoo and still experimenting on various voltage settings. i would greatly like to know where most people start for lining and shading. thank you

[giliegil]

toooo many variables – machine type – power supply type – hand speed – desired effect……….allz i can say is keep on experimenting with it :) :D

[its130]

i bought the Grinder kit with its 4 machines, which all look the same. is there general a differnt setting for color fill and shading? Could any of you give me your advice on what you look for in needle penetration?

[giliegil]

from that pirate place? for $100?

[Johnny]

Hey what’s up. I just joined this thing so I don’t want to offend anyone by posting a reply, but I can’t help myself. Base voltage settings vary greatly from machine head to machine head. The material used to produce the frame, the capasitor rating, how many layers of wire are used on a set of coils, the guage of wire, spring tension and thickness and armature bar gap all play a role in the voltage it takes to run a machine. Typically, higher end machines will run at lower voltages because they are usually constructed of materials that produce less resistance. The trick is tuning your machines to do what you want them to do without hurting your clients. If your machine isn’t doing what you want it to do and you just crank up the voltage, its not going to make anything better. Its just going to make your machine do the same thing, just harder. Most artists that I know (myself included) have three or four pretty standard machine set-ups. a liner, a shader and a color shader. Machine speed is what fundamentally seperates each, although there are machines specifically designed to do a particular job. As much as I don’t like the nickel/dime theory, I suppose it would be a good place to start. Try not to run your machines much higher than what It takes to get the armature bar to make a solid hit on the front coil. I hope that helps, and I hope I didn’t step on anyones toes.

[its130]

thank you for helping me out.
i now realise it is all up to the particular machine, im just trying to establish a set of numbers to have a set of basic starting values for new work. im getting there, just got a little flusterated ( i know my spelling sucks)

My next project is a large hand piece , so obviously i dont need to be guessing anymore.

[giliegil]

thanx johnny – cool name – that is my oldest sons name :D – anywayz – don’t worry bout steppin on toes – everybodyz 2 cents are welcome in my book 8-)

[its130]

oh, and yes i did buy the 4 machine kit from pirate face ,any coments on their stuff? good or bad is ok.
thank you

[its130]

ok, something i just learned, you should adjust your voltage setting acording to the amount of voltage it takes to achieve a nickels depth while under the weight of our fingers touch to simulate the drag load while the skin is being penitrated.
this sound right?

[Johnny]

Hey no problem. I’m happy to help. What’s pirate face? I’ve never heard of them… Oh and if you have four machines, it would probably be a good idea to choose one to dismantle and assemble. Over and over. If you know exactly how a machine goes together, and what small changes do to affect its performance, you will benefit greatly.

[giliegil]

yes! pirate face – i got that 4 machine “deal” – maaaaaan they get hot after 3 lines you put down – small little machines! i knew it was 2 good to be true – buuuut they enticed me with this book – and well – i guess it wasn’t a total loss……..

[Author]

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