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About 1.25 and 1.50 mm To be honest, I’ve found the nickel and dime rule to be pretty irrelevant, given each machine will have it’s own ‘sweet spot’ where it will give the best effect, so even using a nickel or a dime, you’re still going to have to adjust the contact screw away from that distance anyway :lol: It’s a good ‘rule of thumb’, but by no means a set in stone rule :) My advice (feel free to ignore) is this… Hold your machine so you’re looking down on the top and run it. Adjust the gap of the contact screw till the peg on the armature bar is making a perfect 8 shape (or infinity loop, depending on which way you’re holding it :lol: ) and when you then put on the needle etc, you should have no issues :)
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Cheers for that mate. Yeah most of my machines are set up to the sweet spot, but i just wanted to try the nickel and dime gap to see how it works. :D
I have had them running pretty well for the past year with no real problems, but still trying to learn as much as i can, so just keep pulling the machines apart and trying different caps and wraps for the different machines i have (5 coil and one rotary). Its pretty fun. especially now that im getting better at it. :lol: -
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@ben.catterall wrote:
Cheers for that mate. Yeah most of my machines are set up to the sweet spot, but i just wanted to try the nickel and dime gap to see how it works. :D
I have had them running pretty well for the past year with no real problems, but still trying to learn as much as i can, so just keep pulling the machines apart and trying different caps and wraps for the different machines i have (5 coil and one rotary). Its pretty fun. especially now that im getting better at it. :lol:No worries, glad to be of help :) If you’re tuning them into the sweet spot already, not really any need to go down the nickle and dime route just for the sake of it :) I found that when I started varying my method ‘because others were doing it’, my work suffered as a result, so I’m a big believer in getting all the info you can, but then from all of that finding out what works best for you, and then going with that method :)
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When I first began tattooing I was taught to use dime for liner, nickel for shader and color. The more I studied and read though, the more I realized that while effective to an extent, there are better ways to go about it. The concept is using the air gap to basically control the speed of the needle for different applications. Eikon put out a series of short magazines called machine-gun magazine. This is where the green monster came from for those of you who have heard of it. The final issue built a liner, shader, and color packer. The air gaps on all three machines were quite similar, instead, the difference was in the springs, A-bars, coils, and resistors. I built several machines based on this theory and love them, they run smoother and at lower voltage than my old nickel and dime machines did as well. The liner uses thick springs, with a very light a-bar, and a very small 22uf capcitor. The shaders has mid weight a- bar and springs are around 17 and 18, it runs on a 33uf capacitor. The packer has very thin springs, and a big ole meaty a-bar with a 47uf capacitor. the point is you needle stroke stays closer to the same length, so the voltage stays lower, the machines run smoother. It’s worth checking out the magazines, the torrents can be found here if your interested… http://torrentz.eu/57c66f17ac9288efec19cd8a1705d3446b8e303c
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@Rees wrote:
When I first began tattooing I was taught to use dime for liner, nickel for shader and color. The more I studied and read though, the more I realized that while effective to an extent, there are better ways to go about it. The concept is using the air gap to basically control the speed of the needle for different applications. Eikon put out a series of short magazines called machine-gun magazine. This is where the green monster came from for those of you who have heard of it. The final issue built a liner, shader, and color packer. The air gaps on all three machines were quite similar, instead, the difference was in the springs, A-bars, coils, and resistors. I built several machines based on this theory and love them, they run smoother and at lower voltage than my old nickel and dime machines did as well. The liner uses thick springs, with a very light a-bar, and a very small 22uf capcitor. The shaders has mid weight a- bar and springs are around 17 and 18, it runs on a 33uf capacitor. The packer has very thin springs, and a big ole meaty a-bar with a 47uf capacitor. the point is you needle stroke stays closer to the same length, so the voltage stays lower, the machines run smoother. It’s worth checking out the magazines, the torrents can be found here if your interested… http://torrentz.eu/57c66f17ac9288efec19cd8a1705d3446b8e303c
I completely agree! I love Eikon device gear. I have a green monster too and it runs brilliantly. I also have there true spring set which I now use their springs and a-bars on my other machine and have taken that theory into rewiring my caps on my other machines to suit better. Now I’m saving up to get another green monster and maybe one of their power supplies which I have read are awesome!!
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@ben.catterall wrote:
@Rees wrote:
When I first began tattooing I was taught to use dime for liner, nickel for shader and color. The more I studied and read though, the more I realized that while effective to an extent, there are better ways to go about it. The concept is using the air gap to basically control the speed of the needle for different applications. Eikon put out a series of short magazines called machine-gun magazine. This is where the green monster came from for those of you who have heard of it. The final issue built a liner, shader, and color packer. The air gaps on all three machines were quite similar, instead, the difference was in the springs, A-bars, coils, and resistors. I built several machines based on this theory and love them, they run smoother and at lower voltage than my old nickel and dime machines did as well. The liner uses thick springs, with a very light a-bar, and a very small 22uf capcitor. The shaders has mid weight a- bar and springs are around 17 and 18, it runs on a 33uf capacitor. The packer has very thin springs, and a big ole meaty a-bar with a 47uf capacitor. the point is you needle stroke stays closer to the same length, so the voltage stays lower, the machines run smoother. It’s worth checking out the magazines, the torrents can be found here if your interested… http://torrentz.eu/57c66f17ac9288efec19cd8a1705d3446b8e303c
I completely agree! I love Eikon device gear. I have a green monster too and it runs brilliantly. I also have there true spring set which I now use their springs and a-bars on my other machine and have taken that theory into rewiring my caps on my other machines to suit better. Now I’m saving up to get another green monster and maybe one of their power supplies which I have read are awesome!!
Buying another one would be nice, but I garantee you with a little time and effort you could order the parts you want a put it together yourself, learn abit about tuning, and save some major cash. I paid about 300 for the frames, coils, tru-springs sets and nuts and bolts and built 3 machines…What I don’t get about Eikon is they charge the same amount wether you buy the kit to build it your self, of they put it together for you.
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