fullkeel

[fullkeel]

I just read that your machine is a pulse..Pulse makes great power supplies but I’ve heard mixed reviews on thier machines.
And someone said maybe your coils are on the way out…coils are never on thier way out, coils either work or they do not work…capacitors are never “on the way out” they either work or they are blown.
Pulse is using .016 thick springs to line with is the rear? .016 springs would leave weaker lines than a stiffer spring.

You should take the machine apart and clean with steel wool all conductive parts..binding posts, screws, metal washers on the posts, any shim washers, emery cloth on front spring and contact point on contact screw, base plate, inside of the -neg terminal where the clip cord hook (need a tiny brush or file for that one).
Its good for all machines every once in a while.

[fullkeel]

Not to be rude, that drawing has alot to be desired. If I were you I would concentrate more on drawing better flash than on staining the paper with soft drinks.

[fullkeel]

My builder set me up with a liner that lines solid and fast at 5.5 volts all loaded up. You don’t turn up voltage to make machine faster, increased voltage makes the machine hit harder NOT faster. Shortening the stroke will make it faster, but if you make any adjustments to the stroke/throw, you will throw off the harmonics of the machine, unless it is a piece of shit production machine that had no harmonics to begin with. If you want a fast machine that lays in solid lines a builder (A good builder/tattoo artist) will build and tune to your specs.
You say you want a fast machine..well a good builder will begin by making fast coils for that machine. IMHO when artists want fast machines finding the right coils , “fast” coils is 75% of the battle. (and then the springs and point gap)
In the production world you choose from 8 layer liner coils or 10 layer shader coils and although that amount of wire is in APPROXIMATELY correct, A knowledgable builder will vary the amount of wire depending on how he wants the machine to behave. The speed of the coils is dictated by the measure of resistance in that wire. I have seen 8 layer coils with 3.5 ohms of resistance and as high as 4ohms…A good builder who knows what he is doing will not be so worried about how many layers and build you coils with the proper resistance for the intended purpose AND the right sized capacitor. My coils for example are 1.9 ohms of resistance, wound with the highest quality wire around high quality steel cores which translates to coils that allow the voltage to move through them very fasy, more cycles per second and because of the quality they move all the usual needle groupings at very low voltage. The wire is also insulated against the core in a very special way to give the coils some extra POP. The coils must match the cap, must match the springs which must match the point gap, all of these factors are dependant on one another and when all are in HARMONY there is NO mistake..you can see it, feel it and hear it.
And when your machine is set-up in such a manner, tuned to your specs and sent to you. There should be no reason to ever touch it or play with the contact screw..and this is the differance between a real hand crafted precision instrument and a production piece of shit.

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