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June 14, 2011 at 9:54 pm #17331jaybooginkMember
Thanks canvas!
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June 14, 2011 at 9:47 pm #16643jaybooginkMember
Thanks everyone!
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May 27, 2011 at 3:54 am #16640jaybooginkMember
Thanks everyone! So now I know that obviously the a bar hitting the front coil is not a problem (I never found where in the book I thought I read that so I must have been mistaken). My remaining question is would it be a problem if it wasn’t hitting? Meaning everything is set up properly and I am just running low enough power and contact screw is open far enough that the bar just doesn’t hit the coil? It bogs a lot but won’t stall out completely and that seems to work well for really light gradients for me. Again I am only working this technique with practice skins and I am concerned it may not work the same on real skin.
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May 7, 2011 at 10:03 pm #17324jaybooginkMember
They should always hit? Because the magnet still pulls the needle down enough to open the the contact circuit and the the spring returns to close the circuit again. It just runs really soft (soft hit and soft sound). Is this not a good method? I’ve only tried it on practice skins. Do you think it would be inconsistent?
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May 7, 2011 at 7:39 pm #17329jaybooginkMember
thanks that’s kinda what I thought too. I feel like you would need a really strong hitting machine to be able to use it too. Would it be harder to run than the large mag or about the same?
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May 2, 2011 at 4:02 pm #17343jaybooginkMember
The book has a bunch of well known brands. Price doesn’t matter as much as the product’s reputation. Eikon makes really quality power supplies that range in price given their optional abilities (digital readouts, memory settings, electrical measurements for machine tuning) but if you have a quality power supply and a good multi-meter you can take these measurements yourself.
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May 2, 2011 at 3:55 pm #17347jaybooginkMember
See if you can get some pig skins from a butcher. Just use them fast cause they get nasty after a bit.
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April 28, 2011 at 9:13 pm #17177jaybooginkMember
http://www.painfulpleasures.com has tat soul spearman wrath tubes with the vortex grip disposable combs 25 pack for 30 bucks. Better price than from the distributor. Top quality disposables!
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April 28, 2011 at 8:40 pm #17212jaybooginkMember
Hey thanks! Any specific type of wax you recommend? What is gun- blue seal? I heard to use electrical contact cleaner for the screw/spring contact point. Is filing or sanding more effective? I always use bags!
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April 23, 2011 at 7:37 pm #17228jaybooginkMember
The person who responded to you is accomplished and doesn’t need to “look good with a response”. He was trying to give you encouragement by suggesting that if you had an apprenticeship then your mentor would be able to prevent you from making those kind of mistakes before they happen instead of looking for answers afterwards. He also asked you to post pictures so he could further attempt to help you.
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April 22, 2011 at 8:40 pm #16798jaybooginkMember
I have the same problem with the synthetic skins. I use moms ink and kuro sumi. I found that using PLENTY of a&d when wiping works better than green soap. Hope this helps
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April 22, 2011 at 7:56 pm #17226jaybooginkMember
I am a novice tattoo artist on practice skins have been trying to attain an apprenticeship and learning everything possible for the last year and a half now. I have two things to say that might help you. One: get a jeweler’s loupe to examine your needles after you fully set up your machine before you touch skin to insure that your needle tips are not barbed (bent). If they are you can do serious damage to your clients skin not to mention the quality of the artwork as well. Two: you are going to have a really hard time getting an apprenticeship and earning the respect of fellow artists or mentors with an attitude like that. You need to chill out and absorb any and all advice that someone with real experience is willing to share with you. I’m not picking an argument with you. I’m just hoping you realize that people responded to your question, but not to your apology.
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