Troub1edSou1z

i’m sure it’s been tried. if your wanting to build a shader, i would recommend a medium to thin front spring, standard armature bar and standard capacitor. although this is pure preference. if going by numbers, i like my shaders to run around 106-108 Htz. i use 5m & 7m alot, so this is perfect to push those. (my preference). you just have to mess…[Read more]

@CaptCrunch wrote:

that doesn’t look like apprentice that looks like full-blown badass; nice work

now if i could only get my ass in gear and get a shop, i might become something….lol

@TexasPT wrote:

you are in no danger of being upstaged!

haha….should i feel threatened? at least he had the respect to ask. most people dont do that, that’s why i say i cant stop them…

another you want to do is make sure that when the abar is down touching the front coil, it shoulh have a solid flat contact. you shouldn’t see any light inbetween. i have noticed that some abars are little rounded. if this is the case you need to file it flat. this is the same for your coil cores also sometimes, especially with chinese junk the…[Read more]

@TexasPT wrote:

@Troub1edSou1z wrote:

i cant exactly stop you….

LMAO!!!

i guess those are the chances you take when posting your work on the world wide web…

nice post Texas…..for a quick 2 minute job it aint all that bad….lol

damn 80 somethin views, not 1 reply….lol must be a horrible piece.

i cant exactly stop you….

your missing the point dude! you need to be proficient on paper, before “shooting” it in the skin. your also trying to go with designs that are more complicated then your ability. start out SIMPLE. your jumping the gun. you to have crawl before walk or your going to continue putting out less then satisfactory work. you have people willing to give…[Read more]

the “red” area means there basically is no ink. you ran your needle to dry, meaning there was not enough ink in the tube. the good thing is it can be easily fixed.

alot better, but your transitions from dark to light need to be smoother. alot of your shade work in the face looks to be the same tone. im not sure what the stuff around the face is supposed to be. try this exercise; lay your pencil at more of a 20 degree angle with your paper, pressing firmly move the pencil back and forth about 1″ – 1 1/2″ wide…[Read more]

nice to see you have taken the critisicm well. most people would get pissed and shut down to it. as for needles, like texas said stick with the 7rl, and 9rl for outlining. your shading needs practice so i wouldnt go any bigger then 5m, 7m for that. stay with small designs for now, about the size of a post-it note. nothing bigger. you can mix inks…[Read more]

i agree with Viper. you jumped in to quickly. you need to take a step back, and re-evaluate your work. not going to bash you, but give aggressive critisicm. take it for what its worth, your line work is not bad, but far from good as well. you have to many holidays in your fill, (slow down, and stretch well). your shading, completely horrible. you…[Read more]

if its a Dringenberg, you shouldnt have to adjust anything. maybe make a few very minor adjustments to fine tune to your handspeed, but to mess with the springs, and such will throw it out of whack. these top end builders set the machines up to run correct and smooth. how long have you had the machine? did you buy the machine new, or from someone else?

@Jester wrote:

I don’t mean to hijack the thread, but I just watched that video.
Great information! He mentions that he has a bumper between
the bar and the top of the coil. What does he mean?

basically its like a stick-on foam rubbery thing. it does nothing for the quality, nor does it make the machine run better or worse. it just for quieting…[Read more]

eikon’s ems series are good…..or you can go a little cheaper and get the knock-off for about $150, it’s the cyclone 360. i have one and haven’t had problems with it yet.

yeah,,,lol the hook is baited! give up the info.

like viper said there is no set voltage. you have to tune your machines to where the components work in unison with one another. i have a shader i use, that runs at 8.5 volts. i have tried to tune it for lower volts, it doesnt want to run that low. your machine will tell you where it likes to be, you just have to look, and listen. i also have a…[Read more]

try an apprenticeship. you will learn to set up a machine. for now try the search feature, i’ve covered the basics, take it from there.

nice work….