Troub1edSou1z

[Troub1edSou1z]

if you now how to use the stencil stuff it works very well….

[Troub1edSou1z]

assuming this is happening while shading or color. first thing is your hand speed is faster then your machine speed you need to match these, by either slowing your hand, or speeding up your machine. proper machine tuning will greatly help this. the other issue would be not enough stretch……

[Troub1edSou1z]

scars and stretch marks are different. scars are a tougher tissue, whereas stretch marks are more soft elastic tissue. the only issue your really going to have is getting the skin taunt enough to pass a straight line. because of the elasticity of the skin the needles will tend to bounce, and could cause the line to be very wobbly.

[Troub1edSou1z]

@Johnny wrote:

Hey I see a lot of people asking about machine setups, so I thought I would share a few of the ones I like and hopefully some of you guys can post some others.

Liner- I like a longer stroke, and I measure my

gap from the space between the top of the front coil and the bottom of the armature bar

, instead of the contact screw gap with the armature bar pressed down.

This eliminates any variables

, especially with softer front springs, since they will bend, and ultimately the stroke of your machine will be longer than what it appears to be with the armature bar depressed. I usually set my liner up at just under a nickels width to start.

An easy way to do it would be to place a nickel between the armature bar and the front coil, then turn your contact screw until the a-bar touches the nickel, remove the nickel and give it another half a turn.

Shader-when you are grey shading, or blending you want smooth uniform lay in. I like my shader to run faster than a liner, but still soft like a color packer. You are going to need some soft springs to achieve this. I use a 20ga rear spring and an 18ga long front spring. Basically run your machine and turn your contact screw in until your machine is going as fast as it can. There is a point when your machine is going to start sounding like shit and you will notice it. If you get to that point back the contact screw off untill it starts sounding normal again. Adjust your power supply so that your machine is running rather softly.

Color packer- slow and steady… Same spring setup as the shader, just instead of as fast as possible, you are aiming for as slow as possible. This will allow your needle to travel farther up in the tube at a slower speed to gather more ink between the needles, and “pack” the pigment ink. Turn your contact screw out until it is no longer touching the front spring. Then step on your foot switch while you are turning the contact screw in. As soon as you machine starts to run, stop turning. Make sure your machine runs everytime you hit the switch, sometimes you will have to give the srew another half a turn or so. I hope these help.

If your going to give information make sure your information isn’t garbage. First, that space between the top of the coil and bottom of abar is called an air gap. Second, the space between your contact screw and front spring is called a point gap. Third, this does not in any way eliminate any variables whatso ever. In order to maintain a duty cycle within ranges 45%-55%, your gap distances should be about the same, or as close as possible with other variances. Yes even with that soft front spring bend, you can get your duty cycle within range. Fourth, adjusting using the nickel/dime method is done at the point gap, not the air gap. How would you determine you have the same gap ever time? If you align the nickel toward the rear of the front coil, your gap will be further than if it were aligned in the middle or the front of the coil. typically, a liner would have a short fast stroke, unless you line very slow. Your shader/packer set ups are junk and backwards. matter of fact all of your set ups are backwards. Your not letting the machine work for you, your working the machine.

Now if you would like an explanation on proper set ups to get the machines to do what you want them to do, ask me and i will be glad to help!

[Troub1edSou1z]

i agree. i wouldn’t try to tattoo these on real skin yet. start with simple designs like hearts, small tribal. i would say for now don’t tattoo anything bigger then a deck of cards….

[Troub1edSou1z]

you need to show shadows and shaded areas. you have to provide depth, or a 3d type of perspective……

[Troub1edSou1z]

@artist2k12 wrote:

@destructo wrote:

try setting it somewhat shallow and work off your tip. as a rule of thumb i always use a 45 degree angle… just my 2 cnts

thanks destructo! I will absolutely practice this,and that is ALWAYS pushing,correct?..never pulling?
is the same angle recommended in coloring/shading?

you can push, or pull your lines. whatever you feel comfortable with doing. you have to broaden your horizons. if you stick to 1 thing you wont get anywhere.
also when lining hold your machine at between 60-80 degrees, and 45-60 degrees when shading or fill. you want your outline deeper then your shading to hold everything together. when pushing or pulling you want the tip of the tube facing the direction you going……..

[Troub1edSou1z]

not to bad….good job

[Troub1edSou1z]

@gopalkumar20 wrote:

i match the live, very sensible prerogative for first. alot of avid gamers go into it with elaborate plan, because they can do it on sheet, and wind up flaw on face. they dont take it lengthy and try to get the picture basics first. friendly job.thanks.
debt consolidation houston

shut the f*%k up

[Troub1edSou1z]

welcome aboard….take it slow. just like any other medium there are obstacles to get through. dont jump in the skin too soon. remember, unlike other mediums this one can cause serious damage to someone if your not safe and clean…..good luck

[Troub1edSou1z]

you should have waited before tattooing real skin. these tattoos aren’t horrible, but lack life. there is no depth in any of them. they are very flat….you need to practice basics first.

[Troub1edSou1z]

not to bad….

[Troub1edSou1z]

look at the ingredients and use what is used to make it, i.e: distilled water, glycerin, witch hazel. you can thin it with water, but it might not mix well

[Troub1edSou1z]

@canvasyou wrote:

@Troub1edSou1z wrote:

first of all, freehand doesn’t mean tattooing directly on the skin with no stencil. people always get the assumption that this is how freehand is done.

A Short Excerpt from CR Jordan’s Book:
“This May Sting A Bit: Everything your tattoo artist forgot to tell you, and you were probably too afraid to ask (2012)”

“…CHAPTER 4: FINDING THE RIGHT SHOP…
…Freehand is a myth
Freehand is another concept that tattoo shops use fairly loosely and usually improperly. When a tattoo artist draws on a client with a marker or pen without looking at a reference, this can be considered freehand to some. Others will say that when the tattoo artist completes a tattoo without making a single pen or marker drawing, just jumping right in with the needle and ink, that this is the proper way to freehand. Some will argue that if the stencil applied to the client’s body was drawn by hand, then this is also freehand. Just like the custom piece argument, every tattoo is done by someone’s hand, so you can just as easily say that every tattoo is freehand.
Terms like “custom” and “freehand” are just a few ways that tattoo artists have tried to up-sell their service to potential clients. There are very few tattoo artists that will do a truly custom freehand tattoo, discussing the idea with the client and then just tattooing it without a drawing, sketch, stencil, or reference. This is actually not a very good way to work in the tattoo industry, and I don’t know of many professionals who can pull this off with any level of complexity….”

definitely makes sense……..

[Troub1edSou1z]

good stuff man….you definitely have the artistic ability….good luck

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