wrathone11

http://www.eternaltattoosupply.com/Armature-Bars_p_466.html

supposed to quiet your machine a lot, never tried one though.

When I started putting this book idea together I came down on orders to go to Korea for a year, I’ll be back in the States in about a month and will start working on it again. I’ve got all the plans worked out, but still working out a tweak on the frame jig. Hopefully I’ll have get this thing done this year, all depends on how busy that army keeps…[Read more]

I know I’m chiming in quite late on this, been off the forum for quite a while as I’m in South Korea. Many times when there is swelling and redness like this Witch Hazel will solve this issue. I use a Witch Hazel mix (1 part Witch Hazel 10 parts distilled water) on tattoos after I’ve cleaned them with my green soap mix. The Witch Hazel clams down…[Read more]

I know a lot of pros and some of them never apprenticed, but I know for a fact none of the guys I know paid a fee to be an apprentice. The fact that they didn’t get paid, did all the bitch work around the shop while learning and had to hold down jobs to pay their bills meant they didn’t have the money to pay a fee to apprentice.

Have you tried a thicker guage rear spring? That make get you some extra resisitance on your throw and slow your machine down that extra little bit you’re looking for.

Don’t know where to find something like the Eikon heavy armature, but if you want your machine to run a little slower why are you going straight to replacing the armature bar? You could change your point gap or change your springs and that’s just two ways to approach the issue. If you’re really wanting a heavier armature be like the one Eikon…[Read more]

Yeah, sounds like your tube vise to me. It’s an easy fix if you have a little experience with a hack saw. I’ve had to replace tube vises on several machines and replaced them for friends too. I used to just order a replacement tube vise, take apart the offending machine, mark the metal right behind the offensive tube vise with a straight line,…[Read more]

I see everyone pushing this “stencil stuff” and other stencil application products, but how about this wet down a paper towel with your green soap mix (the one you use to squirt paper towels with anyway) really soak the paper towel then wipe the skin down where you’re putting on the stencil and immediately apply the stencil. I’ve been doing this…[Read more]

try starting with a cutback liner and 18 gauge springs, they should be able to adjust it to about anything they want from there. 18 gauge is pretty much the middle ground and go to spring and a cutback tends to be able to run fast enough that if their hand speed is too fast it’ll be easily recognizable. Just my opinion.

I don’t bag machines, haven’t seen enough proof that it actually does anything that cleaning a machine won’t do. Matter of fact I tend to agree that material can travel up the tube and is then trapped in the bag with the machine causing even more contamination than not bagging. Just my opinion though

I’ve posted the CDC guidelines on this board that give all the information the CDC looks at for sterilization of equipment. I’m not going to argue that what you are doing isn’t sterilizing, what I am going to say is that most of the people that have given you information on this thread have been trying to help you. The view point of the people on…[Read more]

Glad I could help

So many factors involved here, it sounds and looks like it’s just a matter of hand speed which is the most common reason for not getting a good single pass line in. Personally I wouldn’t get too caught up on the single pass line thing as long as the end result is what you’re looking for. I personally like to sculpt lines and often go over them…[Read more]

Tear it apart and rebuild it, tuning Spaulding machines can be a pain I always replace the coils on them. I’ve got three Spauldings, but they’ve been completely rebuilt so the only original piece is the frame.

Got what your asking and from the sounds of it the machine you’re working with is a cutback, meaning the position of the front binding post is “cutback” so the 90 degree angle you’re looking for puts the contact screw farther back meaning you use a shorter front spring. You can cut the front spring to the desired length to get rid of excess…[Read more]

http://www.sterilizers.com/glass_bead/

I’ve been using Kuro Sumi outline ink for almost all the black in tattoos I do for five years now and have never had an issue or wished that it had been darker, it’s always been great. I’ve played with some other blacks from eternal, skin candy and millennium and really didn’t see a big enough difference in the results to stop using Kuro Sumi. I’m…[Read more]

First I’ll say that I like sculpting lines so passing over lines for me several times is not uncommon, but I break out single pass lines all the time with the same machines. It sounds to me like you’ve played with everything from the machine to the needles to the ink, but the one thing you didn’t mention is the depth you’re putting the needle into…[Read more]

Grapefruits and oranges, straight up old school practice when you’re tattooing them.

Don’t get me wrong on what I’m about to say, I do think getting an apprenticeship (or at least having some good friends that are tattoo artist that will help you) is the best way to getting into the tattoo business. The fact that you seem to have a real appreciation and respect for tattoo art and the process of learning the correct way says a lot…[Read more]