wrathone11

[wrathone11]

http://www.eternaltattoosupply.com/Armature-Bars_p_466.html

supposed to quiet your machine a lot, never tried one though.

[wrathone11]

When I started putting this book idea together I came down on orders to go to Korea for a year, I’ll be back in the States in about a month and will start working on it again. I’ve got all the plans worked out, but still working out a tweak on the frame jig. Hopefully I’ll have get this thing done this year, all depends on how busy that army keeps me over the next year. At least I’ll be back in the States.

[wrathone11]

I know I’m chiming in quite late on this, been off the forum for quite a while as I’m in South Korea. Many times when there is swelling and redness like this Witch Hazel will solve this issue. I use a Witch Hazel mix (1 part Witch Hazel 10 parts distilled water) on tattoos after I’ve cleaned them with my green soap mix. The Witch Hazel clams down the swelling and redness quickly and the customer can use it at home to help with swelling and redness.

[wrathone11]

I know a lot of pros and some of them never apprenticed, but I know for a fact none of the guys I know paid a fee to be an apprentice. The fact that they didn’t get paid, did all the bitch work around the shop while learning and had to hold down jobs to pay their bills meant they didn’t have the money to pay a fee to apprentice.

[wrathone11]

Have you tried a thicker guage rear spring? That make get you some extra resisitance on your throw and slow your machine down that extra little bit you’re looking for.

[wrathone11]

Don’t know where to find something like the Eikon heavy armature, but if you want your machine to run a little slower why are you going straight to replacing the armature bar? You could change your point gap or change your springs and that’s just two ways to approach the issue. If you’re really wanting a heavier armature be like the one Eikon sells you could also drill and tap a normal armature bar and put a small button head screw in the armature bar towards the front. Obviously the crew would have to be on top of the armature bar, if you tried to put it on the bottom it would screw up your throw and just in general would work out. Another option may be going to a golf store and buying some metal tape, put the metal tape on the armature bar until you get the weight you want in the area you want. If you know anything about metal working and can get to a place with a drill press and metal cutting band saw you can make the armature bar you want. Of course that option is a lot more work that the others, but building your own parts and machines is a lot of fun.

[wrathone11]

Yeah, sounds like your tube vise to me. It’s an easy fix if you have a little experience with a hack saw. I’ve had to replace tube vises on several machines and replaced them for friends too. I used to just order a replacement tube vise, take apart the offending machine, mark the metal right behind the offensive tube vise with a straight line, then take the hacks saw and cut that sucker off, take some fine metal files and finishing sand paper and clean up the cut, clean the machine well and reassemble with the replacement vise. I make my own replacement tube vises now, but that’s only because I also make machines now. Making your own is easy if you’ve got the tools and little metal working experience, but honestly it’s easier to just order one.

Here’s a link to find a replacement tube vise
http://www.spaulding-rogers.com/tattoo-supplies/tattoo/RQCBB.html

[wrathone11]

I see everyone pushing this “stencil stuff” and other stencil application products, but how about this wet down a paper towel with your green soap mix (the one you use to squirt paper towels with anyway) really soak the paper towel then wipe the skin down where you’re putting on the stencil and immediately apply the stencil. I’ve been doing this for several years and it works great, and if you really want to keep the speed stick then spray down the paper towel wipe some speed stick on top of the green soap mix (on the paper towel obviously) and then wipe the area of the skin with the paper towel and apply your stencil. No need to throw away the speed stick or the green soap squirt bottle as neither one ever touches the client, but honestly with green soap and paper towels you don’t need speed stick anyway.

[wrathone11]

try starting with a cutback liner and 18 gauge springs, they should be able to adjust it to about anything they want from there. 18 gauge is pretty much the middle ground and go to spring and a cutback tends to be able to run fast enough that if their hand speed is too fast it’ll be easily recognizable. Just my opinion.

[wrathone11]

I don’t bag machines, haven’t seen enough proof that it actually does anything that cleaning a machine won’t do. Matter of fact I tend to agree that material can travel up the tube and is then trapped in the bag with the machine causing even more contamination than not bagging. Just my opinion though

[wrathone11]

I’ve posted the CDC guidelines on this board that give all the information the CDC looks at for sterilization of equipment. I’m not going to argue that what you are doing isn’t sterilizing, what I am going to say is that most of the people that have given you information on this thread have been trying to help you. The view point of the people on here is the view of professionals trying to help others become professionals. In the tattoo industry, with health board inspections the correct answer to sterilization is disposable and or autoclaves. The reason everyone is going to push information guiding you in the direction of autoclaves and disposables is because that is the only way you will be able to pass health board inspections and it is certified safe sterilization by recognized health officials and they’ve even printed material stating that. If someone on here was to tell you that boiling a needle in water then using a chemical sterilization agent then reboiling for and hour was an acceptable way to sterilize they would be giving unprofessional answers to inquiring/prospective professionals. Bottom line is, if you want to work in a shop and be with in health and safety regulations you will either use all disposable or have and use an autoclave. If you are tattooing out of your home and are comfortable with your sterilization methods then that is your business, everyone on here was just trying to give you professional advice and answers.

[wrathone11]

Glad I could help

[wrathone11]

So many factors involved here, it sounds and looks like it’s just a matter of hand speed which is the most common reason for not getting a good single pass line in. Personally I wouldn’t get too caught up on the single pass line thing as long as the end result is what you’re looking for. I personally like to sculpt lines and often go over them more than once to get the line work I’m looking for.

[wrathone11]

Tear it apart and rebuild it, tuning Spaulding machines can be a pain I always replace the coils on them. I’ve got three Spauldings, but they’ve been completely rebuilt so the only original piece is the frame.

[wrathone11]

Got what your asking and from the sounds of it the machine you’re working with is a cutback, meaning the position of the front binding post is “cutback” so the 90 degree angle you’re looking for puts the contact screw farther back meaning you use a shorter front spring. You can cut the front spring to the desired length to get rid of excess spring. The thing is, cutbacks are normally set up as liners. Don’t get too caught up in the liner shader labels though, you can use any machine for anything if you tune it right and know what you’re doing. The other thing is don’t get dead set on the 90 degree angle thing, it’s just a rule of thumb. I’ve got machines set up with 90 degree angles and I’ve got machines set up with what is probably a 45 degree angle depending on what I’m tuning them to do for me. Remember also the 90 degree angle is not to the armature bar it’s to the front spring. Meaning the angle of the contact screw from the front spring when the two are touching is 90 degrees, not the contact screw being set at a 90 degree angle to the armature bar.

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